La cuisine provençale · The Table of the South

Provencal Cooking Without Vegetable Oil

The sun-drenched dishes of the South of France, cooked with cold pressed olive oil, farm butter, and good lard. Real ingredients and slow afternoons, the way the mas kitchens of Provence have always done it.

Olive Oil Farm Butter Pure Lard
A plated Provencal dish served at the table
Daube Provençale
From the recipe collection
L'huile d'olive

Olive Oil First

Provence is olive country. Every savory dish in our collection starts with a generous pour of cold pressed olive oil.

Le beurre

Butter Where It Counts

Pastry, sauces, and the sweeter things lean on farm butter and slow rendered lard, the fats the old bakeries trusted.

Jamais d'huile de graines

Never Seed Oils

No vegetable oil, no shortcuts. If a fat did not exist in a Provencal farmhouse pantry, it does not exist in ours.

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From Our Kitchen

The Provencal Recipes

Six dishes from the markets and farmhouse kitchens of the South of France, each one cooked on honest fats and plenty of patience.

Slow Braise Daube Provencale, beef braised in red wine

Daube Provençale

3 hr 45 min·6 servings·Medium

Beef shoulder braised low in red wine with orange peel, black olives, and wild herbs. The Sunday centerpiece of the Provencal table, even better the next day.

Ingredients

  • 1.2 kg beef chuck, cut into large chunks
  • 1 bottle full bodied red wine
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp lard
  • 2 onions, quartered
  • 3 carrots, cut into thick coins
  • 4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
  • 2 strips of dried orange peel
  • ½ cup black Niçoise olives
  • 1 bouquet of thyme, bay, and rosemary
  • Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

  1. The night before, cover the beef with the wine, onions, carrots, garlic, and herb bouquet, and let it rest in the refrigerator.
  2. Lift out the beef, pat it very dry, and keep the marinade with its vegetables.
  3. Brown the meat in batches in hot olive oil and lard until every side takes deep color.
  4. Return everything to the pot with the marinade and orange peel, and bring it to the barest simmer.
  5. Cover and braise in a low oven at 150°C (300°F) for about 3 hours, until a spoon slides through the meat.
  6. Stir in the olives for the last 30 minutes, then skim the surface and season well.
  7. Rest the daube off the heat before serving, ideally overnight, with bread or buttered noodles.
Seafood Bouillabaisse, the saffron fish stew of Marseille

Bouillabaisse

1 hr 40 min·6 servings·Involved

The fisherman's stew of Marseille: firm white fish and mussels in a saffron broth perfumed with fennel, tomato, and a whisper of orange zest.

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg mixed firm white fish (monkfish, snapper, sea bass)
  • 500g mussels, scrubbed
  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
  • 1 leek and 1 onion, chopped
  • 4 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
  • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 generous pinch of saffron threads
  • 1 strip of orange zest
  • 6 cups fish stock
  • Salt and a little cayenne

Instructions

  1. Warm the olive oil in a wide pot and soften the fennel, leek, and onion without letting them color.
  2. Add the garlic, tomatoes, saffron, and orange zest and cook until the tomatoes slump into a rough sauce.
  3. Pour in the fish stock, season with salt and cayenne, and simmer 20 minutes so the broth takes on the saffron.
  4. Slide in the firmest fish first, then the more delicate pieces a few minutes later.
  5. Add the mussels, cover, and cook just until they open.
  6. Taste the broth once more, then serve straight from the pot with toasted bread rubbed with garlic.
Vegetables Ratatouille, summer vegetables stewed in olive oil

Ratatouille

1 hr 15 min·6 servings·Easy

Summer vegetables cooked separately in olive oil, then folded together to keep every one distinct. Nice's answer to the height of the market season.

Ingredients

  • 1 large eggplant, cut into chunks
  • 3 zucchini, thickly sliced
  • 2 bell peppers, cut into strips
  • 2 onions, sliced
  • 5 ripe tomatoes, chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • ½ cup olive oil, divided
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • A handful of torn basil
  • Salt and black pepper

Instructions

  1. Salt the eggplant chunks and let them sit 20 minutes, then pat dry.
  2. Cook the eggplant in a share of the olive oil until golden, and set aside. Repeat with the zucchini, then the peppers.
  3. In the same pot, soften the onions and garlic in more olive oil.
  4. Add the tomatoes, thyme, and bay leaf and simmer to a loose sauce.
  5. Fold all the vegetables back in and stew gently for 20 minutes, uncovered.
  6. Rest off the heat, finish with basil and a last thread of olive oil, and serve warm or at room temperature.
Soup Soupe au Pistou, vegetable soup with basil sauce

Soupe au Pistou

1 hr 10 min·8 servings·Easy

A garden soup of beans, potatoes, and summer vegetables finished at the table with pistou, the pounded basil, garlic, and olive oil sauce of Provence.

Ingredients

  • 1.5 cups cooked white beans
  • 200g green beans, trimmed and cut
  • 2 zucchini, diced
  • 2 potatoes, diced
  • 2 tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 cup small pasta shells
  • 2 cups basil leaves
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • ½ cup finely grated hard cheese
  • Salt and black pepper

Instructions

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer with the potatoes and green beans.
  2. After 10 minutes add the zucchini, tomatoes, and white beans and keep at a gentle bubble.
  3. Stir in the pasta and cook until just tender.
  4. Meanwhile pound the basil and garlic with a pinch of salt, then work in the olive oil and cheese to make the pistou.
  5. Season the soup and ladle it into bowls.
  6. Pass the pistou at the table so each bowl gets a generous green spoonful.
Baked Pissaladiere, the caramelized onion tart of Nice

Pissaladière

2 hr 30 min·8 slices·Medium

Nice's market morning tart: an olive oil bread dough piled with onions melted to sweetness, laced with anchovy and black olives.

Ingredients

  • 3.5 cups bread flour
  • 2 tsp instant yeast
  • 1 tsp salt for the dough
  • 3 tbsp olive oil for the dough
  • 1.25 cups warm water
  • 1.5 kg yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • ¼ cup olive oil for the onions
  • 12 anchovy fillets
  • ½ cup black Niçoise olives
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme

Instructions

  1. Knead the flour, yeast, salt, olive oil, and warm water into a supple dough, then let it rise for 1 hour.
  2. While it rises, cook the onions very slowly in olive oil with the thyme until they collapse into a pale gold jam, about 45 minutes.
  3. Press the dough into an oiled baking sheet in a thin, even layer.
  4. Spread the onions over the dough, leaving a narrow border.
  5. Lay the anchovies in a lattice and dot the olives between them.
  6. Bake at 220°C (425°F) for 20 to 25 minutes until the edges brown. Serve warm, cut into squares.
Dessert Navettes de Marseille, orange blossom cookies

Navettes de Marseille

1 hr 30 min·24 cookies·Easy

The boat shaped cookies of Marseille's old port, scented with orange blossom and made on olive oil, crisp outside and dense within.

Ingredients

  • 3 cups all purpose flour
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • 2 tbsp melted butter
  • 2 tbsp orange blossom water
  • Zest of 1 orange
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 1 egg yolk for the glaze
  • 1 tbsp milk for the glaze

Instructions

  1. Whisk the eggs with the sugar until pale, then stir in the olive oil, melted butter, orange blossom water, and zest.
  2. Work in the flour and salt until a firm dough comes together, then rest it 30 minutes.
  3. Roll pieces of dough into small logs and pinch the ends into little boat points.
  4. Cut a shallow slit down the length of each navette and set them on a lined tray.
  5. Brush with the yolk beaten with milk.
  6. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for 15 to 18 minutes until just golden. Cool completely; they keep for weeks in a tin.
A Provencal table set for a long lunch
Our Kitchen

The Table Behind Palvri

Palvri Table is a small kitchen devoted to the long lunches of Provence, where the shutters close against the afternoon sun and nobody is in a hurry to leave. We write down the dishes as they are cooked in the farmhouses of the South, from the market basket, in season, and without fuss.

Our one house rule is old and simple: olive oil pressed from the fruit, butter from the farm, lard rendered slowly, and nothing else. Vegetable oil has no seat at this table, because it never sat at the tables we learned from.

Bon appétit, from our table to yours.

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